One Rheumatologist’s Sabbatical for Contemplative Leisure

Getting into a Rhythm

Cathedral. (Click to enlarge.)

The following morning, we began our five-week trek in the pouring rain, hiking upward into the mountains. Fortunately, by noon the rain had stopped on a mountain ridge, and donkeys welcomed us along a vineyard.

I only used my cell phone for photographs, videos or occasional texting with family; social media was off limits for my hike. Although we established a hiking rhythm after a couple days, we struggled with a viral syndrome and developed blisters on our toes from the steep mountain descents. Our AllTrails app, snacking, double espresso, stretching, analgesics, moleskin for blisters and red wine with dinner became part of our rituals for the next five weeks.

All hikers on Camino are endearingly referred to as peregrinos, or pilgrims, on their journey. According to Merriam-Webster, a pilgrim is someone who travels to foreign lands on a journey. Most pilgrims we met were hiking for the physical challenge, for a significant break from routines, for consolation, for soul searching or for a combination of those things. All pilgrims shared the trail with enthusiasm during short overlapping distances on the hike, with a recognition of each other’s country, and intimate chats—mostly in anonymity, not sharing names or occupations. The cultural greeting was “Buen Camino,” meaning good path or good road.

We were all there for intersecting reasons, with some commonality; everyone on the trail was uniquely trusting of each other. Many women and men of all ages hiked alone, seemingly without any concern for safety. Most stayed at albergues or hostels. Hikers from Australia, Ireland, Italy, Korea, Israel, Ukraine and other countries shared miles, snacks, chats and solitude. How surreal to be intimate yet anonymous, soulful without proselytizing, all ages yet ageless, patient and resilient, on a mission but mission-less. There was nothing pretentious about hiking the Camino.

Physical, Mental, Spiritual

I considered my first two weeks a purely physical phase of the hike. We were finally seasoned hikers with a daily rhythm, resilient with healed blisters and unflappable to any physical challenges. The invigorating scenery on foot was endless from beautiful beaches to rocky coastlines, from pastures and farmland with charming animals to remote trails and vast woodlands, through quaint towns into larger cities and from small hermitages along the way to city-sized cathedrals. I was physically in a groove.

The second phase was a mental transition in which I let go of any preoccupation for physical concerns and was altogether mentally relaxed. I shifted from mental anxiousness to pure mental clarity without distractions. The stimulating culture, seafood, street art, architecture, museums and simple daily events were heartily appreciated. Although I was on the trail with other pilgrims, I surprisingly discovered personal solitude for many hours each day hiking alone. For the last 10 days of my hike, I entered a profound transition to being one with nature and fully present in the moment.